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Dimitrios and Stella
Katsarós
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Winery with an unmatched view
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Dr. Dimitrios Katsarós opened
his winery above the village of Kraniá, Larissa in 1978. Kraniá occupies
south-facing slopes on the side of Kato Olympos, the lesser peak just south of the
storied Mount Olympus. The winery, which practically adjoins his weekend home, is
among the most picturesque in Greece. Situated at an altitiude of more than 600 meters,
it is a crows nest that on a clear winter day provides a view of snowcapped Mt. Athos
across the Thermaic gulf in Halkidikí. The winery is technologically and architecturally
impressive in its own right, with a graceful lawn above, stone steps leading to a
quaint courtyard outside, and windows inside that offer a spectacular view that must
contribute added inspiration to this already devoutly religious winemaker.
Katsarós was a Cabernet pioneer in Greece, led to this choice of cultivar
by an ambitious drive to create the best red wine that he could utilizing a personal
standard which, as a successful and urbane physician, was strongly biased towards
Bordeaux. As he says, "I make wine specifically to my own taste."
The development of quality and style has been long and unhurried, as befits a winemaker
whose stated goal is to produce a wine that can age for thirty or forty years. He
had examined the local varieties of the region for about six years before abandoning
them in favor of planting additional Cabernet and Merlot. One reason for this decision
was the apparent suitability of the elevation and microclimate. Ocean winds flow
against the hillsides during the morning and mountain wind begins its daily descent
soon after the sun passes. Although Katsarós has developed his own facility
with vineyard management, vineyardist Iraklis Tsikos is a trusted advisor in the
quest to produce choice fruit.
Dr. Katsarós joined an elite group of boutique winemakers who succeeded in
creating a premium market in Greece. His limited production of 15,000 bottles moves
quickly each year despite being among the most expensive in the land. But, like any
new venture, it has not been entirely a smooth ride. The Cabernet/Merlot blends have
developed stylistically since their first bottling in 1981. Oak, especially the domestic
oak he employed early on, has been problematic. The wood has dominated the wines
in the past, especially during vintages in which his fruit lacked dimension. Several
years ago, Dr. Katsarós made a concerted effort to determine which oak best
suited his wines. These days, French
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Kraniá and beyond
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oakómostly newó is
key, carefully selected and toasted. Now he says, the hardness is a thing of the
past. Aiding in this pursuit are friendly consultations with Evangelos Gerovasiliou. His red now bears the fruit of his labors,
as it were. His 1998 shows a masterful balance between softness and tannin structure,
concentrated, but not weighed down by heavy fruit. Few would argue with the assertion
that this is the best Cabernet wine produced in Greece.
In 1995, a small plot was planted with Chardonnay. 1998, the maiden vintage, was
not released. "The vines were not ready and the market would not have understood.
If I had released it, it would not have met expectations." The 1999, however,
entered the market with a bang. The 2000, perhaps still displaying some youthfulness
of vine, shows crispness mitigated by judicious oak contact. At 750 meters, his vineyards
are among the highest in Greece. Yet, he says, "I don't like too much acidity
in my wines. I'm fortunate to have a southern orientation, but a long growing season,
organic farming and low yields [50-60 kgr./hectare] also contribute to concentration
and balance. Every year I will be going for ever more roundness and body."
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Frescos adorn the cellar
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Dr. Katsarós pursues his devotion
to winemaking with the full support of a talented family. His wife Stella is a noted
chef and expert on Greek cuisine. Last year [2000] she published a brilliant cookbook
which we hope will become available in the U.S. soon. In a field of repetitive and
uninspiring books about Greek cuisine, its intelligence, culinary focusóeven
illustrationsóset it apart from the competition. Their son, Euripides, is
currently studying oenology in Bordeaux, a pursuit that bodes well for the possibility
of the achievement of 40-year-old Katsarós Red. Daughter Olga currently studies
philosophy and psychology and seems at least to have landed a supporting role assisting
with dealings between her father and Greekwinemakers.com.
Construction is underway on some guest rooms in the winery that one suspects will
be the most desirable in Greece for wine tourists, especially since they will adjoin
a kitchen and dining/conference room where Stella and Dr. Katsaros intend to host
wine and food events. Efforts are underway to bring small quantities of Ktima Katsarós
wine to America. If the effort is successful, an announcement will appear on this
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